Batik is a Process

Batik is the one of the original cloths from Indonesia. Also, batik is the one of the most highly developed artin Indonesia due to the many colors, pattersn and the actual smell of batik. The smell of batik is a typical which derived from the smell of melted wax used for creating batik.

The word batik is to be derived from the Javanese word “ambatik” that come from words “amba” mean to write and “titik” mean dot or point. The word “ambatik” translated means “a cloth with little dots”.

Reffers to the mean of the word batik, batik is not just a motif. Batik is a process uses manual wax-resist dyeing technique. The main principle in batik is there are processes of applying wax to the cloth, coloring it use a traditional dyeing technique and removing the wax by immersed the cloth in the boiled water.

Artisans create batik used canting, believed to be a purely Javanese invention, to apply melted wax to the cloth. Natural materials such as cotton or silk are used for the cloth, so that it can absorb the wax that is applied in the dye resisting process.

After the initial wax has been applied, the cloth is ready for the first dye bath. The waxed cloth is immersed in the dye bath of the first color. The amount of time it is left in the bath determines the hue of the color; darker colors require longer periods or numerous immersions.

When the desired color has been achieved and the cloth has dried, wax is reapplied over the areas that the artisan wishes to maintain the first dye color or another color at a later stage in the dyeing process.

The number of colors in batik represents how many times it was immersed in the dye bath and how many times wax had to be applied and removed. A multicolored batik represents a lot more work that a single or two-color piece. Numerous dye processes are usually reflected in the price of the cloth. The price of around two meter lengths batik tulis is more than 600 thousand rupiahs or more than US $66. 

To meet growing demands and make the fabric more affordable to the masses, in the mid-19th century the "cap" (copper stamp - pronounced chop) was developed. This invention enabled a higher volume of batik production compared to the traditional method which entailed the application of wax by hand with a canting.

The cap is dipped into melted wax. Just under the surface of the melted wax is a folded cloth approximately 30 centimeters square. When this cloth is saturated with wax it acts like a stamp pad. The cap is pressed into the fabric until the design side of the cap is coated with wax. The saturated cap is then stamped onto the fabric, leaving the design of the cap. This process is repeated until the entire cloth is covered.

The usage of “cap”, as opposed to canting, to apply the melted wax has reduced the amount oftime to make cloth. There is just need at least two hours to create around two meter lengths used for kain panjang or sarong in traditional dress used cap. Also, the price cheaper than “batik tulis”, it’s around 200 thousand rupiahs or around US $22 for kain panjang.

            Today, batik quality is defined by cap or tulis, the second meaning hand-drawn designs which use a canting, or kombinasi, a combination of the two techniques. True batik, both “batik tulis” and “batik cap”, are reversible, as the pattern should be identical on both sides.

Style of batik

            Batik originated in Javanese courts, called Batik Kraton (Kraton means palace). The traditional batik from Solo and Yogyakarta are two of Batik Kraton. But, several other regions in Indonesia also have their own styles of batik. Batik Kraton is regarded as the basic batik of Java. It is rich in Hindu-influenced motifs that have influenced the courts of Java since the 5th century, and later on influenced by the culture of Islam.

            This type of batik has earthy color tones such as black, brown, and dark yellow (sogan), sometimes against a white background. The motifs of traditional court batik have symbolic meanings. Some designs are restricted: larger motifs can only be worn by royalty; and certain motifs are not suitable for women, or for specific occasions (e.g., weddings).

Throughout Indonesian history, each time the rich batik tradition has come into contact with foreigner traders or colonial rulers, they have influenced the development of batik. Batik from the north coast of Java, called “batik pesisir”, for example in Cirebon, Pekalongan and Lasem have been greatly influenced by Chinese culture and effect brighter colors and more intricate flower and cloud designs.

In the past, Indonesians, mostly adults, wear batik only at formal events. Nowadays it has become increasingly popular even among the younger generation with batik factories starting to manufacture more wearer-friendly and fashionable batik outfits.

Many office workers now wear batik on a daily basis.

The demand for batik has been increasing in Indonesia since it was recognized as an intangible element of Indonesia’s cultural heritage by UNESCO in October 2, 2009. To celebrate batik, the Indonesian government has called on all Indonesians to wear batik on Oct 2. Some private offices in Indonesia have batik uniforms for their employees and the government offices have called on their employees to wear batik at once a week.

            And with Indonesia’s growing love of batik, on every corner of the city - in malls, on sidewalks and in bus stations - it seems there are people selling clothes with traditional printed motifs. Actually, the clothes with traditional printed motifs or called “batik printing” is not batik, but cloth with batik motifs.

It’s easy to differentiate “true batik” with the “batik printing”. The pattern of batik printing has no identical on both sides and the price is very cheaper. We can buy a blouse made from “batik printing” with price 50 thousand rupiahs, opposed with a blouse made from “batik tulis” or ”batik cap” that more than 300 thousand rupiahs.

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